Fashion is...

"Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening." - Coco Chanel.





This blog looks at fashion in its many incarnations, from the haute designers to the high street and from the trend-setters to the avid fashion followers. For this blogger, fashion is far more than the shirt on your back; it is communication, art, culture, anti-fashion, gender, revolution and resistance. It can instantly define or defy your identity. It is one of the most personal and unique things about you...

Friday, 18 February 2011

Dress Pins & Pirouettes- Erdem Spring/Summer 2011

London, September 20th 2010


Watching Erdem’s spring/summer 2011 catwalk show felt almost like being privy to a dreamy tryst between two lovers engaged in a spring fling. As a select group of voyeurs (which included Alexandra Shulman sitting beside Sir Philip Green and Elle UK Editor, Lorraine Candy), we watched, veiled beneath a loping tented structure that coincidentally was designed by Erdem’s architect boyfriend.




Backed by the soothing ballet hymn, Petrouchka, the first model almost danced onto the circular catwalk. She glided past in a virginal, white chiffon shift dress, with a floral appliqué design and strappy white lace shoes; I was love struck. Inspired by the Ballets Russes (French for The Russian Ballet—a ground-breaking, itinerant ballet that performed between 1909 and 1929), Erdem’s enchanted collection continued to delight us with prima ballerina silhouettes, created by fitted bodices with flared skirts and shoes (designed by Nicholas Kirkwood) that laced like ballet slippers all the way up the calf. The models swept past us one by one—as though dancing en point —in ethereal, floral print and embroidered dresses, with slashed or scooped necklines, nipped waists and flattering, slightly A-line or tiered lace hemlines. Her suitor followed swiftly behind, in floral print or plain silk blouses with mismatched fitted trousers or tailored short shorts.


The passion of the love affair intensified with the emergence of a bold red, all over lace dress. This suggestion of an underlying sex appeal was in fact completely new for the genteel Mr. Moralioglu. His final floral-printed gown had a thigh-high slit and floating train that oozed with summery sensuality and the frisky, full length skirts were sheer, adding a daring twist to the otherwise demure collection. Like the stirring sensation of your true loves sweet breath on the back of your neck, my spine tingled from start to finish. Erdem’s spring/summer 2011 collection was a whimsical and heart-stoppingly romantic affair.



Key S/S 11 Trends Identified: Stripes, brights, florals, pastels and the white blouse.

This was written for MOJEH.com as part of their online fashion week dairy: http://mojeh.com/

California Dreamin’- Rodarte Spring/Summer 2011

New York, 14th September 2010



When you think of Cali girls you picture blonde, bronzed and buxom beach bunnies. Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the sister design duo behind Rodarte, had a somewhat different vision for their spring/summer 2011 collection, inspired by their home state of California. An elite crowd of fashion royalty, including Anna Wintour, Anna Dello Russo, DVF, ALT, Rachel Zoe and fashion sage, Franca Sozzani, sat expectantly in a room scattered with wood panels for the latest offering from the budding newcomers. Harry Nilsson’s “Everybody’s Talkin” crackled from the speakers setting a vintage seventies vibe and the first model was unveiled. Far from being a beach bunny, she was like an elfin tree nymph; sent to whisk us all up to the Coast Range Mountains of California. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a tribe of elves, clad in hourglass dress with cutaway shoulders, cropped or peplum jackets with matching wrap skirt in stamped leather, a wood-grain-print blouse sliced high on the torso to reveal a provocative flash of skin above loose trousers and a black lace blouse tucked into a tiered skirt.



The palette was predominantly brown with splashes of sea blue, mossy chartreuse and glistening golds: there was an audible gasp of adoration from the crowd as a gilded gladiator dress, whipstitched together from squares of burnished leather, appeared before us. As always, the Rodarte girls were not a mere one trick pony, and their references went far beyond the rocky mountains; what did the gorgeous blue and white Ming vase evening dresses have to do with redwoods? Thankfully, they also hadn't abandoned their renowned eccentricity entirely: the platform wedges were carved from wood, metal, and pyrite cubes into butterflies and flowers. With their eccentricities tamed and their layering restrained, the collection exuded a more mature aesthetic and a seductive new precision. It was uncomplicated and accomplished, yet retained its playfulness. The show ended on seventies classic, “Ventura Highway” by America. While it was a vintage soundtrack, there is no doubt that Rodarte are the designers of the future.




Key S/S 11 Trends Identified: The white silk shirt, draping.

Written for MOJEH.com as part of their online fashion week diary: http://mojeh.com/